Bags for the boys

Few men care that the man bag was the biggest accessory trend on the spring/summer 2015 catwalks, or that 32 of Burberry's 42 looks were accessorised with a bag. Yet, look around, and man bags are everywhere.

The most practical solution to the habit of carrying laptops, gym kits and bike gear, man bags are becoming an everyday essential - and their use is soaring: Mr Porter has increased its bag brand offerings by 20 per cent to 60 - with another 10 to come. "It's not a fashion choice, but necessity," says Simon Spiteri, its accessories buyer. "As we carry more items, a bag has become a mainstay purchase for men."

As men get more comfortable with the idea of carrying a bag, the styles are becoming more adventurous. These days, men are just as likely to carry a leather portfolio pouch (ie a clutch) as they are a rucksack. "There used to be a bit of stigma attached to men carrying any kind of bag except a briefcase," says Toby Lamb, design director at Richard James, "but that's completely gone now."

This season there are four main styles, including the soft briefcase and the tote - a style not dissimilar to a woman's shopper that appeared on almost every runway, from Burberry to Louis Vuitton and Gieves & Hawkes. "Men tend to buy a bag with a specific purpose or usage in mind - the 'It' bag doesn't really resonate with our customer," says Spiteri.

Durability is another consideration: bags tend to be leather or a waxed waterproof canvas and, unlike handbags, are rarely suede. The Swedish brand Sandqvist road-tests its products for six months before putting them into production (with existing styles being constantly tweaked) and its bestseller is the Stig, a simple canvas leather-strapped knapsack that is padded internally and can fit a 13-inch laptop.

But style does come into it, too: after all, as Lamb observes, "putting too much in your pockets does spoil the line of a nice suit".

Taking a cue from retro military designs, many of the new rucksacks are simpler and more utilitarian; pocket-fastenings have been scaled down and fabrics improved. Distressed canvas knapsack-style bags come with vintage details, including long leather straps, buckle fastenings and zippers.

Unlikely as it may sound, the pouch is one of Mr Porter's most popular styles. Yes it's a clutch bag, but as mobile phones get ever bigger, it does solve the endless pocket problem. Mostly found in mono leather with minimal detailing, these relatively discreet bags often come with a wrist strap.

The male tote is actually one of the most practical: its handle can be handheld or else slung over the shoulder ("You've got to be able to do that with a real man's bag," says Lamb); its open top allows for easy access, and its size allows for extra kit. No surprises this style is Richard James' bestseller.

A less formal approach to business dressing - briefcases have become less boxy. Crafted in a softer leather, these new styles come with a zip-around fastening as opposed to the front flap - and look all the more elegant for it.

Photographs: Kirstin Sinclair/Getty

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